From Terrace to Valemount ... along the Yellowhead Highway

 Tuesday, August 30, 2022

We woke up in Terrace today, about a 2 hours drive from Prince Rupert through driving rain. A good night’s sleep helped to refresh us as we faced a new day. The weather forecast for today was more rain, heavy at times. It was then that we made the decision to remain in Terrace for the day and tour the points of interest closer to our hotel and leave the more scenic drives for tomorrow when the weather might have improved.

 

It was a good decision.

 

We began our touring by returning to a totem pole we had seen last night on our way into town, a totem that signified the presence of a native community adjacent to Terrace. Kitsumkalum has a Treaty Office, a school, a community centre and other facilities through which the community is guided and governed. Kitsumkalum is in the final stages of negotiating a treaty with the BC and Canadian governments. (Sadly, the process started in 1885 when community representatives travelled to Ottawa to discuss the challenges that existed.)

 

We returned to Terrace where curiosity seized us so we drive into a lumber yard. Not the kind of lumber yard we would fine at a Home Hardware. This lumber yard began with the trees as they have been cut down in the forest and delivered to this facility on huge transport trucks, often with two trailers attached. The logs are stored and processed into lumber as required by the customers. Large piles of cut lumber are placed inside a huge machine that seems to dry them out and make them ready for transporting to clients, again on huge transport trucks, often with two trailers behind. This process was called kiln drying , drying stacks of lumber which lowers the moisture content so they do not warp or twist later. Alternatively, lumber can be air dried by simply placing stacks of lumber outside and letting it sit for up to a year to fully dry. Using paint or wax on the ends of the boards minimizes the amount of moisture that can get in and cause splitting. There were enormous piles of sawdust on the site that were being used as fuel for a power plant that provided energy for the lumber mill. In this way, every part of the tree was being utilized.

 

We made a quick stop at Tim Horton’s (of course, we did) and carried on with our town tour. Terrace downtown features many large murals, covering the walls of many of the buildings. They are variable in colour but all share a theme of nature and industry in Terrace. Many of them featured salmon as a main element. They have been prepared by students and artists alike over many years and certainly create points of interest throughout the main part of town. In addition to the murals, there are sculptures of bears and fish in various locations, in front of buildings, on street corners. Each sculpture has its own design and character. Again, seeing them around the town was great fun.

 

Terrace has derived its name from the geological structure of the area, namely that the mountains have evolved to have a number of flat terraces from bottom t top. Each terrace seems to create another community within Terrace. New housing construction was in full bloom as we climbed up the mountain.

 

There were a couple of lookouts at the top but due to the rain and fog, we truly could not enjoy the view. We did stop into a cemetery called Kitsumkalum, where many people from the native community are buried. It was quite touching to see a Canadian flag atop many of the graves. It had a very different appearance than the cemeteries we had visited on Haida Gwaii.

 

We drove through a community college, Coast Mountain College, and we also saw the University of Northern British Columbia while travelling through town. Back down the mountain, we stopped into the local art gallery, located in the public library, where there was a display of art featuring salmon. It was fascinating to see the many different ways that artists integrated salmon into their work – paintings, photography, acrylics, weaving, sculpture and pottery. It was a small display but we were glad we took the time to visit.

 

Railway is a major component of the development of Terrace and its only economy. The first date that a train passed through Terrace moving west was April 9, 1914. It has certainly grown since then. Several tracks sever the community and there is really one way to get across to the other side. The original building that was the station when the railway arrived in Terrace still stands and houses several small businesses. There is also another original building that was the home of the founder of Terrace, George Little. This building is now used by VIA rail as the Terrace station.

 

We stopped for a very tasty but late lunch at a restaurant we know well (not Tim Hortons) and were surprised to see in Terrace. We both enjoyed our food at Denny’s.

 

After lunch we travelled a short way east of town to view the old Skeena bridge. It officially opened in 1925 and replaced the island ferry which had been used to transport people to and from Ferry Island. The original single lane bridge is currently being refurbished and closed to all traffic until October 2023. Happily, there is a much more modern bridge with multiple lanes (1975) that is part of the Yellowhead Highway and traffic can easily get across the river.

 

We arrived back at our hotel in the late afternoon and have spent the evening planning the next few days as well as organizing photos and, of course, writing the blog.

 

Wednesday, August 31, 2022

 

Today was in incredible day! We travelled to Ginglox along Highway 113, heading north from Terrace. We had two main goals for the day. The first was to visit the lava fields that were created by the last volcano that occurred in Canada circa 1760. The second goal was to visit the Nisga’a museum to learn more about their history and culture. A third goal, as always, was to enjoy the scenery along the way. We managed to accomplish all three goals in a spectacular way.

 

As we drove along the highway, we passed through some incredible landscapes. Raging rivers, created by the recent heavy rainfall. The contrast between the deep blue of the glacial water and the white foam from the rapids was remarkable. Such beauty!! We climbed high into the mountains only to have to return to the valleys as the road snaked its way through this amazing landscape. Snow capped mountains appeared on occasion. It was hard to believe that so much snow could still be there at the end of August. Deciduous trees were just beginning to change colour; summer flowers were gone; sumac was turning red; fir trees towered over our heads. Rain came and went and occasionally the sun would peek through for a few minutes.  (Much later in the day on our way back ‘home’, the sun was brilliant in the sky.) The drive alone made this day worthwhile.

 

But, now for the other goals. A piece of Canadian history about which we knew nothing occurred in this area circa 1760. A volcano!!! Yes … in Canada!! It had a devastating effect on the people and the landscape in the region. 18 villages were destroyed by fast flowing lave and over 2000 people lost their lives. The lava flow was powerful … it blocked rivers that became lakes; it flowed so quickly that it rippled on top of itself (in places it has been measured to be 60 feet deep); the lava toppled trees, some of which were trapped inside the lave, creating lava tubes that appeared when the trees had finally rotted away; a drowned forest was created because the water in the river had to change course due to the lava and now flows through and among the trees.

 

As for size, the lava covered an area that was about 45,000 acres, or 70 square miles (about the size of Wilmot township for those of you who live near Waterloo. The landscape reflects the shape of the lava when it cooled. It has not changed although it is gradually being covered by lichens, yellow and white. An occasional struggling tree has sprouted but it will be many more decades before the land is useful.

 

A driving tour has been developed with points of interest along the way to help visitors understand the impact of this event. It was a fascinating tour and well worth the drive today.

 

Our other goal was to explore the Nisga’a nation to better understand the implications of having and agreement with the federal and provincial governments about the oversight of the land. It is the first modern day comprehensive agreement that has been negotiated by all three governments. It took 113 years to finally achieve this outcome. Effectively, the agreement provides the opportunity for the Nisga’a nation to be self-governing within the parameters of Canadian law. The Nisga’a Memorial Lavabed Provincial Park has been established as the first jointly managed by the government and a First Nation. No doubt the eyes of the country are watching to see how this works out.

 

We visited the community of Laxgalts’ap where an amazing museum has been created. Each visitor is offered a guided tour from someone who is of the Nisga’a nation. The displays reflect the beliefs and culture of the Nisga’as and the docents were able to share family stories, historical context, explanations of masks and regalia, descriptions of traditions and modern day adaptations. We spent a couple of hours there listening and exploring. It was a great opportunity for us to learn so much about a First Nation community and deepen our understanding of the priorities of their culture.

 

Ginglox, a further 50 km, was the last town on the road which virtually ended on the west coast. It was also the only town that had a restaurant. It was called “U” See Food and “U” Eat It. A cute play on words. We shared our table with a couple from Texas who were travelling in an RV and plan to be on the road for 6 months. It was an interesting conversation. Jim ordered Dungeness Crab and I had halibut chowder. Sadly, both dishes were disappointing, especially since we had been looking forward to seafood all day.

It was time to turn our car back in the direction of Terrace, where we have been staying for three nights. As I said earlier, the return drive was quite delightful in spite of it being about 2 hours in length. But it was still early and we arrived in Terrace well before sunset. It was the end of a long but exhilarating day. So much to think about and to be grateful for.

 

And another adventure awaits tomorrow.

 

Thursday, September 1, 2022

 

We have only been in Terrace for a couple of days but it has quickly begun to feel like home. Amenities like a Tim Horton’s and other familiar restaurants and stores certainly helped us feel that way. Canadian Tire, Shopper’s Drug Mart, Dollarama, Mark’s … and many more made it feel like we knew where we could get the things we needed. On the other hand, we were fascinated by the culture and industry of this community. I described a lot of it yesterday so I will not repeat myself other than to say that we spent a good part of the morning driving from place to place to ensure that we had photographs to support our impressions of this lovely town. More lumbering photos, murals not yet captured on film, beautiful gardens, a mountain ash tree laden with berries (there are hundreds around the community). Photos for our books that create memories of our travels.

 

Then we hit the road … Highway 16, the Yellowhead Highway, which we will follow for most of our trip. The sun shone high in the sky today and the vistas and views from the car were magnificent. Mountain peaks reaching for the heavens. Trees – birch, spruce and others creating a mosaic of green as they went higher and higher on the mountains. And then … there were no more trees. The tree line intervened, the soil and climate no longer able to support the growth of a tree. Instead, on mountains with northern exposure, we began to see patches of snow and ice. As the mountains grew taller, the more snow there was. In some cases, we could even pick up the blue hue of a glacier.

 

Highway 16 was a dream too drive. Very little traffic, well spaced passing lanes, wide shoulders, well maintained pavement. It was hard to keep within the speed limit. The occasional signs indicating there was aircraft monitoring speed on the highway were great reminders. With so little traffic, there were also very few services along the route. Signs were posted saying how far the next fuel source would be. Lovely viewpoints and rest areas provided rudimentary washroom facilities and there was certainly no where to stop for coffee or a snack. But what else could we expect in such a large area populated mainly by elk, bear and moose. Not that we saw any (a disappointment to be sure). The most notable creatures we saw today were bumble bees and some beautiful and multitudinous butterflies.

 

We did make a few short stops along our way. The first was at a small chapel that was dedicated to all the men who had perished while working in the logging industry. It was a lovely setting and drew to mind just how dangerous this job could be.

 

Next came the Usk ferry, a very unique water powered ferry that transported vehicles across the Skeena River to and from an island where a community has developed. The current in the river is sufficiently strong to actually propel the ferry from one side to the other. There is a wire that runs from the ferry to a very large cable that crosses the river. This connection ensures that the ferry will  not be caught in the current and swept downstream. No need for ordinary fuel when the river itself could provide all that was needed.

 

We moved on to the village of Kitwanga where five churches were burned just days after the discovery of bodies at the Kamloops Residential School.  One of the churches had an unusual bell tower in front of the main building. The bell tower is all that remains of this church.

 

There was a line of about a dozen totem poles along one street in this community, probably each telling the story of a family who lived there. Today, we saw a community that has largely been abandoned and many of the homes seriously damaged. It was quite a sad place in every way.

 

Just outside of Kitwanga was an amazing scenic drive on Cedarvale Road. The road was gravel and we were a bit wary of climbing high onto the mountain slopes no matter how good the view was. But, alas, our concerns were unfounded and the road was in extremely good repair and the spectacular scenery was well worth the effort. The most prominent vista was of a series of mountains known as The Seven Sisters. They were by far the tallest mountains we have seen and the glaciers at the top were spectacular. To say that our cameras were busy at this point is an absolute understatement.

 

There was another phenomenon along this road. We encountered hundreds of butterflies in one particular location. They were flying about in the air and often coming to rest on the surface of the road or on the gravel shoulders. In the air, they showed their colours and designs. At rest, they folded their wings and, deep brown or black, they blended in with the landscape so it was difficult to see them. We took many, many photos trying to capture their beauty with limited success. And, yet, we enjoyed watching them as they drank from the flowers and fluttered in the air.

 

Next, we went to see a single lane suspension bridge at New Hazelton. It crosses the Bulkley River and is built a full eighty (yes, 80) metres above the raging river across a deep canyon. That is the equivalent of a 24 story building. The Anglican church near the bridge sat high on a hill with an amazing vista of the landscape around it.

 

We continued our drive to Smithers and finally arrived, having survived the serious road construction and the attendant wait just outside town. Somehow it had taken us almost 6 hours to cover just over 200 kilometers. But it was another great day.

 

We had a simple picnic dinner in our hotel room. Jim visited a local brewery that had been recommended by our son, Iain. He had been on a skiing trip to Smithers a couple of years ago and recommended it. Jim was happy to have tasted the local brew. And that brought the day to a close.

 

Tomorrow we continue our drive along this magical highway to Prince George. Please come with us.

 

Friday, September 2, 2022

 

Our day began with the best breakfast we have had since we left home. The hotel provided vouchers for an adjacent restaurant and the options on the menus ranged from a traditional breakfast, a stack of pancakes with toppings and three different kinds of eggs benedict. Jim chose an omelette that was loaded with meat and vegetables. I selected a salmon eggs benedict. Both were delicious. The salmon on my eggs was not thin shavings, but rather, thick slices of fresh smoked salmon. We were certainly sated and happy when we got into the car.

 

We took a short tour around Smithers, seeing some of the unique features of the community – murals, interesting architecture, a unique and very busy café, a couple of totem poles and, of course, the Tim Hortons. And then it was time to hit the road.

 

We left Smithers behind and headed further east and south toward Prince George, our destination. It was estimated to be about a 4 hour drive but, true to form, it took us most of the day to cover the distance.

 

We marvelled at the mountains that flanked us along the highway, many sporting significant snow at the top. Photos were essential.

 

We stopped along the road to see unique churches, a farmer’s market, wood carvings of local wildlife, the world’s largest flyrod, 2 perpendicular bridges where two rivers meet (one bridge was a train bridge and the other a vehicle bridge), a building that was originally a Chinese laundry and bathhouse, several roadside lakes and, of course, simply beautiful scenery.

 

As we travelled along, we noticed that the mountains diminished in size and the valley where the road was built gradually widened. At times, it felt like we were actually travelling on flat land. Forests gave way to pastures where cattle munched on the grass. Herds of sheep and some goats were in other fields and thousands of bales of hay awaited collection. We had not previously been aware of such intense agriculture in central BC. It all came as quite a surprise to us.

 

We were travelling along a valley floor paralleling a large river and the train tracks. In one community, Fort Fraser, the final spike of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway was put in place in 1914. The railway has a very significant presence in BC. We stopped to watch two trains meet on adjacent tracks. The train with a long line of oil tanks seemed to have priority and continued to move along the tracks while the second freight train, equally long, pulling cars loaded with containers waited for it to pass. We began to move along the road again and took a side road to view a lovely lake just as the second train came along the tracks, blowing its whistle and warning us to stay off the track. Of course, we waited for it to pass before we crossed the tracks to see the lake. I felt a bit like a little girl at a train crossing. I waved at the engineer and he blew his whistle in return.

 

Trucks along the highway also carry all manner of goods. Not surprisingly, there are many, many trucks hauling freshly harvested trees. Some of the trucks pull two trailers loaded to the top. We saw at least one truck that had three trailers. Best to stay out of their way!!

Other trucks were hauling large construction equipment from one location to another. At one point there was a convoy of eight trucks all carrying massive equipment that we did not even recognize.

 

Other vehicles on the road included multitudinous pick-up trucks, every make and model possible. And RVs – so many small and large, old and new – on their way to destinations unknown, travelling equally in both directions. The highway that had been so quiet yesterday, further north, had taken on a life of its own today. Perhaps, the impending long weekend was a factor, especially for the RVs.

 

We stopped for a lovely lunch in Vanderhoof, about an hour north of Prince George. We chose to eat at a local brewery and we were not disappointed. The food was delicious (Jim had ribs and I had a taco salad) and the can of cider we shared was exceptional (Okanogan Peach Cider). I wonder if it is available at home.

 

After a brief reprieve from the car, we headed out on the final leg of today’s journey. Mountains came back into view and the landscape was much more rolling again. The highway had passing lanes at various points to enable faster vehicles to overtake some of the slower ones, especially the trucks. Near Prince George, we stopped for fuel. The gauge was blinking rapidly and indicated we had ZERO kilometres left in the tank. We thought we would make it all the way to Prince George but we were 10 kilometres short in our estimate.

 

We finally arrived and found our hotel. We are staying here for two days with the goal of exploring the town as well as the surrounding countryside. We will have phone calls with both our children and their families as well as watching the first game of the season of our beloved Michigan Wolverine Football team. Yes … it is being televised here as well as at home. The game starts at 9 am Pacific time so we will have to be up and about and ready to cheer them on.

 

More tomorrow … with the score (if they win)!

 

Saturday, September 2, 2022

 

The day started as planned ... a lovely Facetime call with Iain, Elaine and especially Harlow. It was such a treat to see them all and have great conversation. It was still early in the day so we then turned our attention to the Michigan football game that was available on tv here. It was an exciting game, made even better as the weather was good and our team won - with an amazing score of 51 - 7. Colorado State must have gone home with their heads bowed low!!!

Today was partially a day of rest. We have been travelling long distance, packing every day full of new experiences and learning, and probably not getting enough sleep. So sleep was the next thing on my agenda - a luxurious afternoon nap! It was just what the doctor ordered.

While I slept, Jim went out for a walk. He came upon a nearby Farmers' Market where he purchased some Okanagan peaches. We are looking forward to tasting them this evening.

He also was determined to find the Okanagan peach cider that we had enjoyed so much yesterday. He went to three different liquor stores and was finally successful. They are in the fridge and awaiting our pizza dinner.

Once we were both feeling a bit more energetic, we finally headed out to explore the town. The population of Prince George is about 75,000 people. Our first observation was that there was virtually no traffic on this Saturday afternoon. We speculated that many people may be away for Labour Day weekend. It sure was easy driving.

Three themes seem to sun up Prince George - trains, rivers and parkland. First we visited the train yard where there were hundreds of containers ready for shipping as well as, not surprisingly, stacks of lumber awaiting transport. Any cross Canada train, freight or passenger, tends to travel through Prince George. The passenger trains actually stop here and the passengers spend a night in a hotel. They pass through three times a week. 

Our next stop was a fascinating museum of historical equipment from the rail industry and the lumbering industry. All manner of machines were displayed on the grounds. Large, puzzling and well used. Sadly, the museum was closed when we were there but we did have a quick walk around the fenceline peering in to see what we could

We travelled from there to the shore of the Fraser River. What a large and fast-flowing river it is. From our vantage point, we were able to see the highway bridge and the rail bridge, both extremely long due to the width of the river. Tomorrow we will cross the highway bridge as we continue our journey on Highway 16.

Next we had selected two gardens to visit. Two of them were memorial gardens, one to indigenous people who have been impacted by the intrusion of Europeans and the other, a memoriam for those who have perished in mining and lumbering disasters. Both were large, beautifully manicured and very peaceful. They were also filled with people, walking, picnicking, reading or simply relaxing. One of the gardens was high on a hilltop with a wonderful view of the city and countryside. Both parks have amazing gardens ... clearly vigorously maintained and dearly loved. Such beauty!!

On we went to the university campus, University of Northern British Columbia. It was perched high on a mountain and was generally fairly new. Many of the buildings were connected by walkways, especially helpful on cold or inclement days. There appear to be a wide range of programs available here, many with an environmental theme. Quite a lovely campus.

As we headed generally back to the hotel, we passed through a substantial commercial section of town. Then, we knew where the people were. Parking lots were crowded and cars were coming and going. The one place that stood out for us was the local Costco store. The parking lot was jammed with vehicles, just as it is at home.

I hate to admit it but we watched a second football game today (Ohio State vs Notre Dame - Ohio State won) and ordered a pizza for dinner. We enjoyed a can of cider with the pizza. 

Now Jim is organizing our route and stops for tomorrow and I am working on our photo book as well as this blog. In just a few minutes, we will be heading to the hot tub provided by this hotel. A great way to end a lovely and even a bit quiet day.

Sunday, September 3, 2022

 

It is hard to keep the days of the week straight. Thank goodness for medication that is packaged in daily quantities. Sometimes it is the only way either Jim or I can keep it all straight.

 

We left Prince George this morning and followed the Yellowhead Highway, ultimately on our way to Kamloops (that is still a couple of days away according to our schedule). We have been travelling on the Yellowhead Highway all the way from Mile 0 in Massett, Haida Gwai. We are now at Kilometer 850 give or take, with a lot of side trips along the way. British Columbia is certainly a large and diverse province and we are barely scratching the surface.

 

The scenery along this highway is spectacular in this part of the trip. The Rocky Mountains flank us in the east and the Caribou Mountains are in the west. We are travelling through a broad valley with lots of ups and downs along the way. Happily, the traffic is very light. Often, we cannot see a single vehicle moving in either direction. That makes stopping along the road side to take photos very easy and safe.

 

Once again, we are surprised by the amount of agriculture that occurs along this valley. Herds of cattle, groups of horses and fields upon fields of baled hay can be seen on both sides of the road. Farmers’ markets are advertised in each community and there are occasional roadside stands.

 

Where there are no farms, huge forests occupy the countryside. At various locations, logging roads head up the mountains. There are so so many fir trees and a well developed system for harvesting and replanting. We can see on the mountainsides where clear cut logging has occurred because, logically there are not trees to be seen. There are also areas where new trees are growing but it will be many years until they are ready to harvest.

 

The deciduous trees (birch, ash and others) are already changing colour as the summer season quickly comes to an end. Signs along this highway remind travellers that winter tires and chains are required for travel from October 1 to April 30. Winter is a long season in this part of Canada.

 

Our destination today was Valemont, just 3 hours drive north of Kamloops. While we enjoyed the magnificent mountain scenery, we were disappointed not to see a single animal. We went on some back roads in some provincial parks hoping our luck would change … but not an animal in sight. This is salmon spawning season so we stopped at several rivers where salmon were known to travel. Even the fish did not cooperate. Not to be despondent, we will try again tomorrow. The signs promise the animals live here!

 

The sky was an interesting display of clouds today, everything from fluffy cumulous clouds to heavy, dark rain clouds. We did feel fortunate that we actually encountered very little rain. The various cloud formations and colours in the sky impacted the scenery and the shades of gray and green on the mountains. It might have been described as an artist’s dream, so many scenes open to interpretation through blends of light and colour. Nature is a fascinating thing.

 

Jim took a walk in an old growth forest. Trees towered over his head with a circumference that was breathtaking. We are so fortunate to have provincial and national parks that protect these treasures for travellers to be able to enjoy and appreciate.

Just before we got to our hotel, a beautiful rainbow appeared between us and some distant mountains. Jim was able to capture it with the camera. So I have included it here.

 

Tomorrow will be a more relaxing day. If the weather is fine, we will further on the Yellowhead highway toward the Alberta/BC border. Then we can truthfully say that we have explored the breadth of BC, west to east. It is here though, that we leave the Yellowhead Highway and continue our travels along other roadways. All beautiful and interesting, I am sure, but we have enjoyed our long association with Highway 16.