Port Hardy to Vancouver Airport ... And We Are On Our Way Home

 

Saturday, September 24, 2022

 

This was a quiet day for us. I had stayed up very late last night working on our blog and so had only a bit of sleep when morning came. As has been our pattern on Saturday mornings, we watched our Michigan team play football,  much more competitive game today, but they still were the winners in the end. They are off to a very good start this season.

 

We had the hotel breakfast in our room and while I continued to work on our photo books, Jim spent time organizing our wanderings this week. We will leave here (Port Hardy) tomorrow morning and meander our way south to Cobble Hill where we will stay with a friend until Friday, the day we fly home. It is hard to believe that our six weeks is over so quickly. On the other hand, it is hard to believe what we have managed to do and see in the time we have been here.

I have collected enough photos to create three photo books as a memory for this adventure.

 

The day passed quickly. I needed to have a nap to make up for the lack of sleep last night. We did not even leave the room until it was time to go for dinner. We remained in the hotel and enjoyed another meal at the in house restaurant. It is owned and operated by indigenous people and the food reflects that. Bannock is a standard with most meals. Tonight Jim had a rice bowl topped with salmon and I had a beef dip. As a starter, we enjoyed the deep fried squid. Although we loved our desserts last night, we were too full tonight to even contemplate dessert.

 

We are now back in our room putting the finishing touches on the books and our plans for this week. We are excited to be back on Vancouver Island for many reasons. One is that this island has one of the greatest concentrations of black bears anywhere in the world. Of course, we are hopeful to see one, at least.

 

Tomorrow will be a new and exciting day. Today gave us a chance to catch our breath before we head out for our final adventures this week.

 

Sunday, September 25, 2022

 

Another relaxing day. We enjoyed breakfast at the hotel in Port Hardy before heading off south on the highway toward Campbell River. As usual, what could have been a two hour drive took us most of the day. We stopped to take photos; we followed side roads to find out about various communities. 

Our first two stops were right in Port Hardy. The first was to watch a First Responders Parade honouring a first responder biking team that is setting off today to bike all the way to the south end of the island to raise money for cancer research. It was very moving to see ambulances, fire trucks and police motorcycles accompany these dedicated people through the town.

We were very close to the Port Hardy name late, carved out of wood and mounted in a lovely park next to the water. There was also a monument of a carrot nearby. A carrot? Yes, this carrot symbolized the incentive that was promised if people would move north it Port Hardy in the late 1800's. A road would be built joining Victoria in the south with Port Hardy in the north. Frustrated, in the 1970's the people of Port Hardy began mailing carrots to their members of parliament, reminding them of the promise made so long ago to build a road connecting the south and the north of Vancouver Island. The road was finally completed in 1979.

We stopped in Port McNeill, a small town that thrives on lumbering, fishing and tourism. It was a short but very pretty drive from the highway into the village. As it is Sunday, virtually nothing was open in Port McNeill. We looked for their two claims to fame: the largest burl in the world and the tallest totem pole. We found neither one but we did see a town that seems to be thriving, nice homes and gardens well maintained and a very large marina for pleasure craft and an equally large one for fishing vessels. Back out to the highway, we continued on our way.

 

Forests and mountains flanked the highway. 

There were many signs warning of logging trucks as well as signs indicating what wildlife we were most likely to see, primarily deer and elk. Of course, we saw none. We also learned that Vancouver Island has one of the largest concentrations of black bears anywhere in the world. Alas, we did not see any bears either. Maybe another day.

 

Our second stop was at Telegraph Cove. This community was quite far off the highway along a winding and hilly road. At one point, the road plunged at a 13% grade for a few kilometres. About halfway to the village, we came upon a logging operation that was different from any other that we have seen. This location received newly harvested trees right from the forest and focussed on sorting them by species, circumference, height and destination (most lumber from this location is pre-ordered). Large stacks of trees, bark and branches removed, were piled in a staging yard, waiting to be further processed or shipped to their destination. Even though it was Sunday, log trucks straight from the forest were arriving with newly harvested trees. Once sorted, many of the logs are transported in log booms along the river. From high on a hill, we were able to see several booms that were organized and ready to move.

 

We continued into the village at the end of the road. The road itself was interesting. Two major logging companies work in this area. They collaborated and constructed the road from the highway to their staging yards which enabled their trucks and other equipment to move in and out of the area as required. It was only the last few kilometres that were constructed by the province. By travelling on the well maintained logging road and then on the less well maintained provincial road, vehicles could reach Telegraph Cove, home to several resorts and marinas which are very busy during the ‘season’. Once the ‘season’ ends the population in the village shrinks dramatically. It was reported that the permanent year-round population of Telegraph Cove is 15. Yes, 15!

 

By this time we were about 90 kilometres from Campbell River. I notice that we were getting low on fuel and I asked Jim where the nearest gas station would be. His response, “Campbell River.” My heart did a leap. The odometer was telling me we had sufficient fuel to go another 60 kilometres, not the 90 kilometres to Campbell River. We continued driving along this beautiful highway but there was a tension in the car. What would happen if we ran out of fuel? Maybe someone would stop and help us. We could not even call CAA since there is no cell service along most of the road. Tick, tock … we were down to 50 kilometres and the gas icon began to flash. Tick tock, we were down to 40 kilometres. Jim always has reams of paper with him. As I drove, he leafed through the various pamphlets he had. Finally he said that he had found a town named Woss, some kilometres away, that had fuel. How far? Not sure. Will it be open? It is Sunday. Not sure. But it seemed to be our only hope. Woss was a few kilometres off the main highway. What will happen if we run out of gas and we are no longer on the main road? Not sure.

 

Finally there was a sign for Woss. Turn right at the next intersection. There was also a very old and well worn sign that indicated that there was food, fuel and lodging in Woss. Well that was a relief. I will admit from the appearance and condition of the sign I was not convinced that any of the three options was real. We turned right at the corner and a general store, accommodation and fuel came immediately into view. Although the village might have been a few kilometres away, the much needed fuel was right there. We both breathed a huge sigh of relief. My heart stopped palpitating when the gas tank was full and we continued our drive to Campbell River.

 

There is a fish hatchery just on the north edge of the city and we went there first. Rumour has it that black bears are often seen there. It was 4 pm when we arrived at the open gate that said in large clear letters, “This gate closes at 3:30 pm.” Nonetheless, we risked going in and looking around but we did not get out of the vehicle. We had tempted fate once already today and I had no interest in pressing our luck again. We can go back tomorrow, well before the 3:30 deadline.

 

And so we came to the Comfort Inn, moved our suitcases in, and immediately had well deserved nap. We still have some food with us that needs to be used. So dinner was ham sandwiches and pickles in our room. A gin and tonic washed them down. And a tangerine was on the menu for dessert. There is a functional hottub in this hotel so we donned our swim gear and made our way downstairs. What a lovely way to end this day.

Now to the blog and the photo books. It is my goal to have both completed prior to boarding the plane to fly home Friday night.

Monday, September 26, 2022

 

We are staying in Campbell River for a second night. Not having to pack up and move has given us some flexibility in the day. So we decided to get up quite early this morning and drive to the fish hatchery which is known to be a good place see black bears. In the same manner that happened with our first grizzly bear, we crossed a bridge on the road leading to the hatchery and there was a bear in the river catching and eating the fish that were in the water. He (she) was having a great time. We stopped the car and Jim hopped out to take some photos. About the same time, another vehicle pulled up close by. Jim and the woman from the second car had a short conversation and continued to take photos. Except … the woman from the other car just kept talking. Of course, her nearby voice disturbed the bear and it was not long until the bear meandered further along the shore and disappeared into the bushes on the edge. She stopped to say hello to me on her way back to her car. She had discovered that we are from Waterloo and, coincidentally, she is from Kitchener. Small world.

 

In case you are wondering about safety,  be assured that Jim is staying well away from the bears. He was high on a bridge cover the river and the bear was down in the river. Another factor is the availability of food currently. The salmon are spawning and the river is teaming with fresh fish. The bears appear to be very happy. It was quite amazing to us how many people were in the same location we were, also looking for black bears. By contrast to the cameras other people were carrying, we have very modest photography equipment … a high quality single lense camera with the capacity to zoom adequately four needs (and willingness to carry more heavy equipment). Ina conversation that occurred on another day, a fellow was telling me that he had just ordered a new pickup truck, valued at about $50,000 dollars. He then ordered some new and high powered camera equipment for $32,000 dollars. He is way out of our league on both counts. We would rather buy plane tickets and deeply experience the places we visit. The photos, much as we love looking at them and sharing them, are a by-product of the journey.

 

We returned to the hotel and cleaned up for the day and had our breakfast. Yes, it was that early. Breakfast was still being served. Aftr breakfast, we puddled around in the room for a while. (I am working on the photo books we are creating from this trip. I want to have them completed and sent off for processing before we board our plane on Friday.) Then we left the hotel again and went for a drive looking for a few places where e had been told bears were frequently seen. No further luck with bears this morning but we did see a lovely momma dear and her fawn. They were delightful.

 

Later in the day, we went to a restaurant that we have seen in many places as we have travelled in British Columbia. We have not tried it partly because we have been avoiding restaurant meals as much as possible and we also have not taken the time to actually sit in one location to enjoy a nice meal. This will be our final restaurant meal on this trip so it was now or never. Many of you may have heard of The White Spot and maybe you have even eaten there. We were quite impressed with the service and the flavourful food. It was a great place to enjoy a delicious lunch/dinner.

 

After our meal, we once again set out on a bear hunt. Jim tramped through the woods on some well-worn paths. Many others were doing the same thing. There were reports of seeing up to four bears. In the end, Jim only saw one, a cub who disappeared into the brush beside the river as soon as he saw Jim. Alas, no photos of the bear.

 

We carried on along the road to Elk River Provincial Park where Jim decided to hike to the Elk River Falls. He was gone a long time and finally texted to let me know he was on his way back. It was still quite a while before he arrived. Jim had been unaware of how far down he would have to go in order to see the falls … and how far up he would have to return. Suffice it to say, as well as a very hill walking trail, he descended and then ascended 70 steps on his trek. I was happy to see him back in good shape but also happy that I had chosen to stay in the car. Wow!!

 

And, so we are back at the hotel, organizing our things, before heading out tomorrow in the direction of Nanaimo where we will be staying with a Waterloo friend who recently moved to Vancouver Island. It will be great to see her, a splendid way to end our adventure.

 

 

Tuesday, September 27, 2022

 

We packed the car, had breakfast at our hotel, picked up and Timmie’s coffee and went out on our now familiar itinerary looking for black bears. Luck was not on our side this morning and we came away empty-handed although it was an especially nice day to be in the out-of-doors.

 

We turned our car south and headed for Cobble Hill, just south of Nanaimo where we would visit friend, Carol Poduch, and spend our final three nights in British Columbia. We chose to take the slower route along the Strait of Georgia. The sun was shining; the water was gleaming; and the mountains on the mainland were covered in a thin mist which made them look quite mysterious. Overall, it was a pleasant drive along the coast.

 

When we came close to Coombs, we turned off the coastal road and headed inland to a well known shop called Goats on the Roof. It lays claim to its name because, in fact, there are goats on the roof, nibbling on the turf that grows there. 

Jim and I have been there before but the business has expanded considerably over the years. What was once a very lively and well stocked grocery and souvenir shop has transformed into a veritable shopping mall of souvenir, clothing, ice cream and food shops. Several eateries were also on site. It certainly attracts a lot of people. On this, a Monday afternoon, the parking lot was chock-a-block full. We indulged in some deli treats for lunch and had a delicious ice cream cone to top it off.

 

Back on the road again, we made our way through Nanaimo and onto Cobble Hill. Carol lives in a gated community called Arbutus Ridge. Similar to Predator Ridge where we visited Jeff and Ruth near Vernon, Arbutus Ridge is a community of homes and other facilities – golf course, gymnasium, tennis courts, community centre. The homes are designed to be senior friendly with slopes and not stairs, single story homes (no stairs) and small lots requiring minimal upkeep. Arbutus Ridge has a very welcoming and friendly feel about it. It is easy to understand why Carol has chosen to live here.

 

After a visit with various family members, we sat down for a glass of wine, followed by dinner. Conversation flowed very easily even though it has been many weeks since we last spoke to one another. It is very nice to be in a home and not another hotel. We can relax, move about, organize our bags and get ready to head home in a couple of days.

 

The next two days will be filled with touring, chatting, bridge and meals. And lots of sleep. We both need that.

 

Wednesday, September 28, 2022

 

Today was another interesting day. We headed off to the town of Duncan early this morning. It was a pleasant drive with very iittle traffic. Duncan is about a 20 minute drive from friend, Carol’s home in Arbutus Ridge. We were very happy with what we found in Duncan, many interesting shops with unique merchandise; several cafes serving breakfast and a range of coffee items; many, many totem poles; a Museum of Indigenous History; and a beautifully preserved train station and a caboose right in the middle of town.

 

We decided to drop into Duncan Garage Café and Bakery, a vegetarian place that offered some unique breakfast items. It was packed with customers, old and young. Jim had a ‘green bowl’ topped with two eggs. The bowl consisted of several green vegetables and herbs as well as the two eggs. I had an egg and cheese omelette with sourdough toast and tomato jam. We both indulged in large cappuccinos as well.

 

After a short tour of Duncan, we headed for Cowichan Bay, a small community on the edge of Cowichan Bay. It was largely a tourist town with whale watching, fishing expeditions, surf shops and outdoor clothing. It was functional but lacked the charm we found in Duncan. There was no road along the bay and only intermittent pedestrian access. The more interesting parts of the town were higher on the hillside where people lived in a variety of housing, some with vistas of the bay.

 

The morning passed quickly and soon it was time to return to Arbutus Ridge for a lively bridge game. Carol had invited a friend, Tony, to come over for the afternoon and evening. Many hands of bridge were played, some successful, some less so. We ordered very tasty Thai food for dinner and continued to pay bridge well into the evening.

 

Late afternoon, Carol’s daughter Lily and her mother, Kim, dropped by for a visit. It was fun to spend time with them both.

 

Travel fatigue is taking over and it will be an early night tonight. Only two more sleeps before we fly home. We are both ready to go.

 

Thursday, September 29, 2022

 

Today was another fairly quiet day. We had a leisurely morning and then set out on an exploratory drive through this part of Vancouver Island, south of Nanaimo and north of Malahat Mountain. We began with a drive through Arbutus Ridge, the community in which our host, Carol lives. It is a retirement community with homes of various sizes, all well maintained with gorgeous landscaping.. Some of them were very impressive, especially when you could see the views they from their homes. Saanich Inlet passes this community and pleasure boats and ocean going vessels make their way to their various destinations.

 

Yesterday we had visited Duncan and Cowichan Bay but we needed to go back to Duncan to visit the Mad Dog Fish Store. We interacted with a very personable salesperson who gave us samples of prepared fish, talked with great enthusiasm about his products and offered to package them so we could successfully carry them home with us. There was a world map on th wall with pins indicating all the various places to which his fish had travelled. Every continent had at least one pin, some several. Who could resist? We bought several small packages of salmon, seasoned in different ways. He wrapped and packed them and offered us a freezer pack to put in or suitcase. Done!!

 

We resisted going back to the Duncan Garage Café which we had so enjoyed yesterday and headed in the direction Shawnigan Lake. We passed through several tiny communities along the way; the one distinctive feature in each place was a café. The roads curved and twisted around hillsides and lakes but we finally reached Shawnigan Lake. We laughed when we came to the intersection that directed us to go right to Shawnigan Lake when we knew that the community of the same name was to the left. How confusing is that!?!

 

We enjoyed our meander through this area. Beautiful countryside, the colours of fall emerging and the sun shining brightly through the trees of the forests. We enjoyed our drive back ‘home’.

 

Soon, it was time for dinner. We were taking Carol and her friend, Tony, out for dinner tonight. Carol had chosen the restaurant. Off we went and soon it became clear that Shawnigan Lake was the destination. Carol chose a road we had not previously explored and soon we were at the Lakehouse Restaurant with a table at a window overlooking the lake. What a beautiful setting!! The regular menu was not available because they were celebrating Oktoberfest. Ham hocks, schnitzel and sausages were prominent on the menu, not what we had expected but delicious nonetheless. A bottle of red wine topped of the meal as we chatted and laughed together. It was a great evening.

 

Back home, it was bedtime. Our final sleep before we reach home.

 

Friday, September 30, 2022

 

Our final day. The sun is shining brightly and we are all packed and ready to go. Lunch will be in Ladysmith with friends, Ruth and Bill, from Waterloo. They are here visiting family. From there, we will head to the ferry terminal to travel on one last ferry to reach the mainland. Then, the business of travel sets in in full measure … gas in the rental car, return the rental car, make our way to the terminal, check in for our flight, weigh the luggage (oh!oh!), go through security, find our gate and wait. A little shopping on the way through perhaps.

 

Our flight leaves at 10 pm and arrives at Waterloo International Airport (Breslau) at 4 am. Taxi home. Fall exhausted into bed!!

 

The conclusion of another fantastic adventure!! Thanks for travelling with us.